“We firmly believe India is not a third-world economy but a first-world civilisation. It is the birthplace of luxury. Together, we will create India’s first global luxury brand,” says 51-year-old fashion designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee, who celebrated the 25th anniversary of his label with a grand show at Mumbai’s Jio World Centre on January 25.
The show, which opened with Bollywood star Deepika Padukone and closed with ‘90s super model Christy Turlington, was witnessed by around 600 guests, including fashion industry insiders such as Linda Fargo from Bergdorf Goodman and Saks Fifth Avenue’s Roopal Patel.
Bollywood actors Alia Bhatt and Aditi Rao Hydari — who chose to wear Sabyasachi for their respective weddings — were also in attendance, along with Ananya Pandey and New Delhi-based art collector and reality TV star Shalini Passi. Kumar Mangalam Birla, whose company Aditya Birla Fashion and Retail Ltd (ABFRL) bought a 51 per cent stake in brand Sabyasachi in 2021, attended the show along with his daughter Ananya Birla. While none of the younger Ambani’s made an appearance, their grandmother Kokilaben Ambani attended the show.
Mukherjee’s love for his hometown Calcutta (now Kolkata) is no secret. He has often credited the city for his creativity and inspiration. It is also a part of his brand, just as Roma is a part of Bvlgari’s. To celebrate the silver anniversary of his label, Mukherjee transported his guests to the bylanes of North Calcutta.
As the doors opened, the guests left behind their champagne glasses and plates of cheese and caviar, on one of the most extravagant grazing tables and walked right into an old, quaint Calcutta neighbourhood complete with green shutter windows and iron railings. A colossal water fountain right out of Victoria Memorial sat at the centre but instead of being surrounded by lions, it had tigers, representing Mukherjee’s brand logo — the Royal Bengal Tiger.
As the lights dimmed, guests were greeted with Bengali music before Padukone made her grand entrance in white trousers, shirt and trench coat with statement jewellery. She was followed by a series of Indian and international models showcasing 150 looks all made in West Bengal but with fabrics sourced from Mongolia to France. From velvet appliques overlaid with faux fur, Japanese cotton juxtaposed with pashmina, recycled polyester, to pebbled ostrich leather, the collection was diverse.
The various looks were replete with references of strong women who have inspired Mukherjee — from Frieda Kahlo headbands to Madonna-inspired crucifixes to Maharani Gayatri Devi’s pearls. “My grandmothers were the two most significant influences in my life — one taught me the power of minimalism, while the other taught me the exuberance of maximalism,” says Mukherjee, and this show was an ode to both. Turlington closed the show dressed in a black and white cashmere set, again paired with lots of classic jewellery.
Mukherjee believes we are moving into a new generation of consumers, who will appreciate unique handmade products while valuing wearability and long-term usage. Today, brand Sabyasachi is a synthesis of three verticals that continue to be developed: demi-couture clothing, luxe accessories, and high jewellery.
From having started with Rs 20,000 and three employees the team today has grown into an army of 3,000 artisans and employees across India. Today Mukherjee has flagship stores in Kolkata, Delhi, Mumbai, Hyderabad and a 5,800-sq ft store in New York. He has also cemented retail partnerships with Bergdorf Goodman, Printemps Doha and Saks Fifth Avenue.
From being one of the first Indian designers to show at Milan Fashion Week, to forging global collaborations with H&M, Christian Louboutin and Estée Lauder, amongst others, Mukherjee is establishing himself in the global fashion system. Earlier this month, he said that the brand is set to generate revenues of Rs 500 crore this year.
“Over the next 25 years I intend to hone my craft further by focussing on intricate details reserved for the intimacy of those who wear them — diamonds on the reverse of a necklace backs, beautiful hand-quilted silk linings, and intricate embroidery which mimics complex fabrics,” says Mukherjee.